You won't hear the rhythmic slapping of pupusas in family-friendly El Pulgarcito de America, as the kitchen is not open to the dining room, but for years, this small eatery on Central Avenue has made hearty stuffed disks, redolent with the scent of corn and griddled to pied perfection. A topping of the crisp pickled cabbage and carrot curtido and a squeeze of mild red sauce bring the flavors all together.
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