With so many restaurants opening during the past 12 months, this category was tough. An early favorite was Fiamma, but then Terra took on a new owner, Thierry Garconnet. Before long, the place became the quintessential small, locally owned neighborhood eatery serving unpretentious but well-crafted Eurofare, with an excellent service team. After a rash of grandiose chains coming to town, Terra is the proverbial breath of fresh air — or earth, as the case may be.