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Real Retro

Classic mom & pop eateries thrive amid Charlotte's nouveau sophistication

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"That's true," Anderson says with a hint of melancholy. "These business owners worked very hard -- oftentimes seven days a week -- to make their lives better for themselves and their families. That's not something they wanted their kids to have to do.

"The older generations have come and gone and a lot of their children just didn't want to stay in the restaurant business. They became doctors and lawyers, or pursued other careers. So many of those restaurants closed."

Fortunately for the connoisseur of home-style eats, some of them have survived new generations and new ownership. Charlotte still has much to choose from when it comes to food like your mom used to make (or wished she could make). Here's a guide to a selection of the city's long-lasting home-cooking restaurants.

Anderson's Restaurant

Gary's restaurant, Anderson's at 1617 Elizabeth Avenue, was originally opened by his pop Jimmy and Jimmy's brothers Bill and Pete in 1946.

"My dad created this atmosphere," Gary beams. "It's a family atmosphere and people continue to come back over and over because they know us, and the faces are the same.

"I'm not kidding," he chuckles. "There are guys that have been coming here everyday for years and they sit in the same booth -- and people don't sit in those booths because they know they're coming. The waitresses will see them coming through the door and go ahead and get their order ready."

Charlotteans who've been here for more than a few months know Anderson's for their age-old slogan, "the world's best pecan pie." The phrase is even emblazoned on the side of the building just beneath the restaurant's giant neon sign. But there's a whole lot more there to choose from. Popular items include "delicious golden fried chicken" and a breakfast to brag about that boasts Smithfield country ham. In addition to the pecan pie, there's another signature item known as a "Hot Dorsey Sandwich." According to Gary, pop Jimmy named the sandwich after Charlotte furniture mogul James Dorsey, who described the sandwich to Jimmy after Dorsey had tasted one during an out-of-town dining experience. "My dad told Mr. Dorsey that he'd try to recreate it and if he liked it, he would name it after him." Ironically, the "Hot Dorsey" isn't even a sandwich -- it's baked in a casserole dish with white meat chicken, sharp cheese, mushrooms, crisp bacon and Anderson's "special sauce."

Athens Restaurant

In 1964, Angelo Politis and his brother opened Athens Restaurant, 101 E. Independence Boulevard. After more than 15 successful years, Politis sold the business to current owner Sam Housiadas who, with partners Bill Mantis and Bill Nikopoulos, continues to run the Greek-American eatery today. Little has changed since the business passed from one owner to another back in 1980. Atop the building, the restaurant still sports its original trademark signage boasting the delicacies within ("charcoal steaks" in cursive neon) while out front a chubby chef over a giant flickering yellow arrow flashes his blinking light bulb eyes above the slogan "try our famous Greek dishes."

Inside, the decor's been updated a little -- the booths are now maroon instead of yellow -- but that's where the changes stop. Much of the menu, and even an employee or two, remains unchanged from the previous ownership.

"Oh, I've tried adding a few new dishes," Housiadas explains. "But that's about it. People like it the same. We've always believed in taking care of our customers, hard work, and giving quality food."

Athens is famous for staying open 24 hours a day, seven days a week; consequently, they've become a favorite late-night hangout for clubgoers and other denizens of the night.

Another distinct Athens difference -- they serve traditional Greek food right alongside a typical American menu. It's not unusual for 34-year veteran waitress Annie McClean to serve a burger and fries at one table while delivering a plate of mousaka or souvlaki the next booth over.

"I like to give people a variety," Housiadas offers. "I think that, and the fact we're open at all hours, is what keeps people coming back."

Barbecue King

Pete Gianikas' voice cracks a little when he talks about the giant pink and blue neon sign in front of his drive-in restaurant Barbecue King, 2900 Wilkinson Boulevard.

"That sign," he pauses for a moment as he regains his composure. "I get emotional when I think about that sign. It's been destroyed twice. Once by a tornado and, before that, a truck hit it." Gianikas kept the sign exactly as it was when it was originally built in 1960. Clearly, it represents more to him than just an advertisement. As corny as it may seem, it's about the accomplishment of his American dream. Gianikas immigrated to the United States from Greece in 1951. He came to work at Barbecue King in 1961, and in 1972 he became the owner. During his 41 years at the business, he's watched the students of nearby Harding and West Mecklenburg high schools cruise the drive-in lot, grow up, and start families of their own.