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BEST NEW RESTAURANT (OPENED IN LAST 12 MONTHS)

Ilios Noche

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Chef-owners, and graduates of the Culinary Institute of America, Stratos Lambos and Angelo Kaltsounis produce food that is as compelling as it is flavorful. Also on board is brother Frank Kaltsounis, the pastry chef. This Kaltsounis studied at the French Culinary Institute in Manhattan. With this kind of talent, how can they miss? They can't. Smoky appetizer dips; wood grilled octopus embraced by an audaciously sheer coating of oil and vinegar; housemade sausage showered with a brash onion pepper stew; an apple, prosciutto, goat cheese pizza; wood grilled lamb loin. The choices here are astounding. Or melt into a lemon tart or very chocolatey brownie and hear yourself utter little sighs and murmurs. This place still has me humming Porter's "Night and Day."

Ilios Noche, 11508 Providence Road. 704-814-9882.

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